Galápagos: More Than Just the Islands
When people think about the Galápagos, it's usually the wildlife that comes to mind. And rightly so. But one of the things I enjoyed most about this trip was discovering mainland Ecuador first. It meant the holiday felt much richer than simply flying straight to the islands.
After an overnight flight, we spent our first night at Palma Polo Club, just outside Quito. It was exactly what we needed before heading into the city – peaceful surroundings, fresh mountain air and a chance to unwind after the journey.
Our next stop was Casa Gangotena, a beautiful Relais & Châteaux hotel overlooking Plaza San Francisco in Quito's Old Town. The location couldn't have been better. We spent our time wandering the narrow streets, stopping in cafés and visiting some of the city's remarkable churches, including La Compañía de Jesús, often referred to as Quito's Golden Church. The interior is extraordinary, with almost every inch covered in intricate gold leaf. Even if you're not particularly interested in churches, it's worth visiting.
From Quito we travelled to Mashpi Lodge, deep in the cloud forest. Mashpi is one of those places where you just marvel at nature. Everything revolves around the surrounding forest and the wildlife that lives there. We spent our days river walking, watching hummingbirds from just a few feet away, taking guided walks through the forest and looking for wildlife we would almost certainly have missed on our own.
One of the highlights was the Dragonfly, an open-air cable car that quietly moves through the forest canopy. Rather than rushing from one place to another, it gives you time to stop, look and appreciate just how much life surrounds you. The guides were excellent and somehow managed to spot birds and insects that the rest of us would have walked straight past. The food deserves a mention too. After spending the day outdoors, coming back to beautifully prepared meals using local ingredients was a real treat.
Then it was time for the Galápagos.
We explored the Galápagos aboard a small luxury yacht with just eight cabins, visiting six different islands over the course of the voyage. Each evening, while we were having dinner or asleep, the yacht quietly sailed to the next island, so we woke each morning somewhere completely new and ready for another day's adventure. It made the journey feel effortless and meant we could make the most of every day ashore and in the water.
The wildlife was every bit as incredible as I'd hoped.
Snorkelling with playful sea lions is something I'll never forget. They swam circles around us as if inviting us to join in. One evening, after dinner, we stood on deck watching dozens of sharks swimming around the boat, attracted by the lights. There was something incredibly calming about watching them glide silently through the water.
We also saw waved albatrosses, blue-footed boobies performing their famous courtship dance, giant tortoises, marine iguanas and countless other species that exist nowhere else on earth.
What really made the trip, though, were the guides. Their knowledge was exceptional, but they also knew exactly when to stop talking and simply let everyone enjoy the moment. They pointed out things I would never have noticed on my own and somehow made every landing feel different from the last.
Looking back, I think what I'll re
member most isn't one particular wildlife encounter, but the journey as a whole. Spending time in Quito, experiencing the cloud forest at Mashpi and then exploring the Galápagos made for a wonderful combination. If you have the time, I'd always recommend including mainland Ecuador rather than heading straight to the islands.
It's one of those trips that stays with you long after you've come home. For anyone with a love of nature and wildlife, it's an experience that's hard to beat.
Comments